manipuri scarf vol.3 Proof of high-quality scarf, delicate and beautiful edge finish
Patterns, colors, and tailoring. The things that are made with extraordinary attention to detail have a story that makes you want to talk to someone. In the three-part series "manipuri Talkable Scarf", we will unravel the process of creating a luxury scarf that incorporates the craftsmanship and passion of the creator.
Step1_Heat cut the edge that will be the outline of the scarf
After printing, the fabric is wrapped around a cylindrical core and sent back to the designer. We carefully check whether the color is the one we imagined and whether there are any defects in the fabric.
"After confirmation, we move on to the final process of sewing. First, we cut the fabric along the printed cutting line. Using a heat cutting machine specifically for silk, we cut the fabric while melting it with a high-temperature cutter. Because the fabric melts and solidifies when cut, the edges do not fray, and the subsequent manual winding work can be done smoothly.” (Mr. Iida, manipuri production manager)
At first glance, it seems that the cutting process is done quickly and rhythmically, but in fact, silk is slippery and difficult to cut straight. Cutting work also requires a high level of craftsmanship.
“From the way the dough is fed with both hands while applying the right amount of pressure while constantly adjusting the dough so that it does not slack, you can feel the concentration that does not allow even a moment’s slack. Without cutting, people's eyes and hands are frequently added to advance one process." (Mr. Iida)
Step2_Traditional technique "hand winding" that can only be done by skilled craftsmen
After cutting the printed fabric, the edges are stitched by craftsmen. Nowadays, more and more products are sewn by sewing machine, but at "manipuri", we use the old-fashioned "hand-rolled" hand roll method, where each piece is sewn by hand.
“Hand-rolling, also known as 'French winding', is a method of stitching stitch by stitch, using the pads of your fingers to roll the ends of the scarf from the back to the front. The three-dimensional edge is proof of a high-quality scarf that pays attention to detail.” (Mr. Iida)
"manipuri" scarves are finished with careful sewing. It is said that there are only a few craftsmen in Japan who can make hand-rolled rolls because of the meticulous work that can be done only a few times a day, and because of the skill required.
“I actually tried it myself, but I couldn’t do it very well. With silk that is slippery, the seams are wavy, making it really difficult to sew straight and evenly. Although the specifications are extremely technical, nothing can replace the beauty of the finish, so I ask the craftsmen with a sense of mission to "protect this edge." (Mr. Iida)
Step3_I finish by ironing while inspecting one by one
After finishing the manual winding, the brand name and quality display tag are sewn on.
“Originally, scarves are to be used by removing the tags, so we sew them in a simple way. Even if they are meant to be removed, they are hand-stitched without using a sewing machine. It is." (Mr. Iida)
“One of the things we are particular about is that the brand name is always drawn small in the pattern as part of the design, so that even if you remove the tag, you can tell that it is a “manipuri” scarf. In order to bring out the bright colors of the scarf, we chose a brown color that is not overly overbearing, and has a luxurious feel, but is also easy to get along with." (Maki Nakayama, designer of manipuri)
Finally, ironing is done while inspecting each sheet.
“Ironing is done by hand, and silk is a delicate material. Even if the temperature setting is low, a skilled press craftsman is needed to finish it beautifully and quickly without taking much time. The wrinkles are smoothed out, and the hand-rolled parts are shaped with steam, taking care not to lose the three-dimensional effect.” (Mr. Iida)
A scarf is a “familiar work of art” full of fun to wear
Exceptional design, vibrant colors and fine details that can only be achieved by hand. We are also particular about the fabric that accepts the craftsmanship and thoughts of the creator.
“The texture of a silk scarf increases the more you use it, and you can enjoy how it blends in with your skin.“manipuri” has its roots in vintage scarves, so we started with the exquisite softness that makes it look more mature. I use 12 momme twill weave silk to express from the bottom." (Mr. Iida)
The design, which incorporates a modern mood while retaining a vintage atmosphere, makes scarves more familiar and has increased fans regardless of generation.
“The true charm of scarves lies in the happiness of being able to put on your favorite paintings that you could only look at. If the frame is beautiful, the painting will also stand out." (Mr. Nakayama)
"manipuri" scarves are a collection of proud creators who combine their technical skills and sensibilities. A piece with a human appearance should bring new joy and color to your daily life.
text by Ayako Takahashi
edited by SELEK
manipuri Talkable scarf vol.1
The work of a designer who creates a variety of scarf patterns
https://manipuri.jp/en/blogs/column/manipuri-vol-1
manipuri Talkable scarf vol.2
The skills of the textile printing craftsman who control the vivid colors of the scarf
https://manipuri.jp/en/blogs/column/manipuri-vol-2